DrDnar, this is a very good idea for a topic. I have one suggestion though, you should also check bit 3 of 3A. No one has any idea what it does, but if it is set, that means something special related to usb hardware and we really need to know what it means.

I'll edit in my tests when I finish them.

1. Ti-84+SE
2. P-0508M
3. Requires ALCDFIX
4. V2
5. Ram = no
6. Port 15 = 55
7. port 3A = 00
8. 01C4
9. P?: 000000

1. Ti-84+SE
2. P-0510O
3. Requires ALCDFIX
4. V2
5. Ram = no
6. Port 15 = 55
7. Port 3A = 00
8. 7FC4
9. 000000

Ok, I finished ordered dithering. I used a strange pattern so that I wouldn't get the crosshatches because I don't like them, although it results in diagonal lines, but i think that looks better.

I also changed my relative cutoffs calculation so that it tries to avoid counting boarders. If 10% of the screen is the exact same brightness, it just doesn't count that shade because most likely it is a boarder, this leads to more colors being available for the actual video itself.

So with the new changes, here are the results:

Threshold	F-S Dithering
Ordered Dithering	Heavy Ordered Dithering	Both!?!

So are you looking for software to do it? Because if you are, I got VLC Media player to work for me. I play xbox games through a VHS->DVD converter and plug the sound lines straight into my microphone jack. You might have to play around with the settings a little to get it to not buffer the video though (it lags slightly)


If you are looking for something else, well, then be more specific

Well, Lionel was right as I suspected, there is quite a bit of visual noise when you play the videos on the calculator. Clearly there is more visual depth, but also more static.



The best range to view this at is about 4 feet in an averagely lit room, however I filmed this at 3 inches in a very well lit room.

Edit: Forgot to finish my post
    Next I'm planning to do some ordered dithering, hopefully this should reduce the noise.

zTrumpet, I'm glad you didn't move the whole topic like some people were discussing last night. Because if you did, then I would have a project thread . This is the perfect way to do it. So thanks for the front page.

That's right, I'm keeping with tradition of names by using Tru, but I'm also breaking the mold by making a 6 letter app name.

I think this video should sum it up.



Basically, I started this a while ago, but then USB called me and I stopped working on it. However, seeing Sircmpwn playing music from his flash drive energized me to finish this. From the classical estimates, this should be impossible, grayscale takes 50% of the processor while sound takes 90%, so how did I do it? Triple threading!!! I am actually doing 3 different things at once on this program. I am playing sound, updating grayscale, and copying new video data, all at once.

I think one of the humorous parts of this is the insane data rate. The video runs at 10 fps, 10 * 768 * 2 = 15,360 Bytes/s. The sound runs between 17,500 Bytes/s and 20,000 Bytes/s. So that's a total of 34KB/s. That means it burns through Mirage in .5 sec! At this rate, the 84+SE can hold about 45 seconds and the 84+BE can hold around 15. But hey, this is full video on the calculator.

I'm also trying to make the conversion process user friendly this time. I'm terrible at directshow and such, but so far, I have the inputs to my program as <soundfile.wav> <videoFile.wmv> where the sound is a .wav and the video file is a .wmv at 192x128 and 30 fps, which is relatively easy to do. I wanted to let you input 1 file and your cpu speed, but I couldn't even resize the BMP's for the video through Windows's routines, I had to do it by hand


From an asm standpoint, this program is insane. First off, you take a grayscale video program. I am displaying a grayscale buffer at 60Hz and copying in new data at 10Hz. That's nothing special, but then I overlay sound interrupts running at 40Khz over top of that. These interrupts lower my base cpu speed to 500KHz, which is just enough time to copy in a new picture Better yet, for the first time, I'm using all 3 crystal timers, 2 of which are producing nested interrupts.

And you know, since it's me, perfect grayscale. It's not adjustable yet, but it will be.

In my current setup, I have video and audio looping independently, in the numa numa, assuming you are using the right processor speed, the video and sound are supposed to be the same length, however, the sound ends up being slightly longer since you can't interrupt instructions (which also causes the white noise.) But, I might be able to adjust for that. I could make them loop together, but I'm setting up for Nyan Cat

Here's the source and some samples of this video. I included samples clocked for 15Mhz (wabbit), 15.65Mhz, and 16.3Mhz (mine). So use them if you want. I just have two warnings, 1) I don't think these apps will validate on the calculator, I used a workaround, but it does take a 1/2 hour to send, 2) these sound dreadful in wabbitemu, there's not much that can be done about that.

So have fun. (If you can't figure out how to run it and crash your calculator, I lol at you)

Edit:
    New download link

Possible and easy.
1. Hook up both calculators via whatever link cable you have.
2. If the receiving calculator is being weird, pull out the battery, hold DEL, and put it back in.
3. On the sending calculator, go to 2nd>LINK>Send OS
4. Wait about 5 minutes and it should be done.

No no no.

well, I would backup up first, if you can, and then pull all the batteries, including the backup battery out and let it out for an hour before putting fresh ones in.

First off, if you do this, you only need to wait about 10 seconds to a minute.

If you believe that it's some kind of virus or bug in the code:

1. Remove the four normal batteries
2. Hold DEL while re-inserting the batteries (you may also need to press ON while holding DEL)
3. Your operating system will be deleted. Send a new one using TI-Connect.

Note: Don't do this if you can't send a new OS using TI-Connect!

Of course, it might also be some kind of hardware-related error...

Secondly, holding DEL does not delete your operating system. It boots to the boot code which will clear ram so that the OS has a clean slate to work with. I sometimes do this daily. Doing this is the equivalent of taking out all 5 batteries, and in all honesty, you only have to slightly remove 1 battery for about 5 seconds and then replace it while holding DEL.


So in the end, take out a battery, wait 10 seconds, put it back in while holding DEL. If that doesn't solve the problem, and you say you've already tried new batteries, then most likely the calculator is dead. You can try a new OS, but I doubt that's the problem.